Views:216 Author:Site Editor Publish Time: 2020-04-30 Origin:Site
If you have an older toilet, chances are that the supply tube is outdated, and it may also be blocked with corrosion or otherwise restricting water flow. New toilet hoses are inexpensive and easy to install, but removing the old one may not be as easy if it's stuck with corrosion.
If you find your toilet's old flexible corrugated hose leaking, then it is time to replace it! We will help you by removing and installing a flexible toilet supply line here. Here are some of the tools we need:
Towels or rags
Wrench or pliers
New flexible stainless steel hose
The most common toilet supply line is a stainless steel flex braided hose or corrugated hose. Most houses, condos, or apartments will have this type of supply hose since they install so quickly and easily. There are many other types of supply hoses that require a more in-depth removal and installation, such as a rigid supply line. However, since those are not too common and are often specific to the toilet they are installed on, we are just going to discuss the most common stainless steel flex line.
Turn the water supply to the toilet off by turning the knob on your straight or angle supply valve. Typically, the knob will turn clockwise to turn the water off and counterclockwise to turn it back on.
Flush the toilet a few times to empty the water from the tank. Use a towel to soak up the rest of the water inside the tank so that it does not leak onto the floor when the toilet supply hose is removed.
Use a wrench to loosen the supply hose nut connecting to the supply valve. Then do the same to the nut connecting to the toilet's fill valve. That connection will be on the underside of the tank and you may need another towel handy as some water may still drip out of the old supply braided hose.
Install the new ss braided hose by hand tightening the white plastic nut to the toilet's fill valve nipple on the underside of the tank. Then hand tighten the metal nut to the supply valve.
Turn the water back on by turning the knob on the supply valve.
Check for leaks. If the plastic nut connection end is leaking, slightly hand tighten the plastic nut until the leak ceases. Do not use a wrench on plastic nuts. If the metal nut connection is leaking, use a wrench or pliers to tighten the metal nut just a quarter of a turn past hand tightened to ensure the connection is sealed.
Please Note: Do not tighten metal nuts more than a quarter of a turn past hand tight.
If the water seems to be turning off and on (the "phantom flush"), you probably have a slow leak from your tank into your bowl. You'll need to replace the flapper or the flapper seat/flush valve drain (the thing the flapper seals to).
It could be the fill tube (the little hose that squirts water into the overflow tube) is not adjusted properly. It should be positioned about an inch above the rim of the overflow tube.
If you have a bar float, this controls the water level in the tank, so you should make sure it's bent at the right angle. The water level in the tank is controlled by an adjustable float. If it's too low, you'll have a wimpy flush; if it’s too high, the water will overflow the tube and the fill valve won’t shut off.
The flapper might not be sealing properly—either it's an old part or something is preventing it from sealing.
The fill valve and/or flapper might need replacing.
It doesn't matter. There are two different styles of valve assemblies—with or without a ball float: They both work and they're interchangeable.
Fixing a toilet is a very easy task that can be accomplished by almost anyone. Even if you have to buy a pair of pliers, they can become the beginning of your tool kit and the cost of the pliers will still be far cheaper than bringing a plumber in. It should only take you about 0.5 hours at the most.